Friday, May 3, 2024

Re: Help…..

Catherine Shin

On Wed, 15 Oct 1997 [email protected] wrote:

> I am a below elbow amputee looking for terminal devices to aid in rock

> climbing…

>

> I used a hook to begin, but this proves to be a problem because there is no

> release from the hold if i lose grip with my other hand…. in effect I could

> fall and be dangling from my prosthesis, or just lose it (leave it

> hanging)….

Tim – just so you know, I just graduated from prosthetics school so I

don’t have a lot of real world experience, however, I have been climbing

for 5-6 years. What kind of climbing are you doing? Indoors or outdoors?

If outdoors, are you climbing mostly blocky type holds (jugs and big

edges) or cracks? Are you doing much overhanging stuff or mostly using

your arms for balance and direction on slab? Crack climbing might be the

only place a hand type terminal device would be useful.

What sort of suspension are you using? Muenster or harness?

At first glance, I think a hook (possibly modified or even using a

terminal device made from some aid gear) might be the best for reasons of

ruggedness and gripping. Then, if your sound side grip slips, the key will

be suspension. How much residual limb do you have (what % of length or

what muscle attachments?

And last but not least, how much do you want to be perceived as climbing

with good style (i.e. not using what could be perceived as aid – like a

camming terminal device on a crack climb) versus how much do you just want

to get up more varied or harder routes?

Cathy

[email protected]

(718) 824-1355

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