What is the consensus on paying Texas FDA’S fee? The deadline is approaching in Texas to purchase a device manufacturers license. What is the sense in Texas—are facilities paying the fees now??? Or waiting until the bill passes?
Thanks,
Georgia T.
CTOPLP
> Date: Tue, 24 Mar 2009 15:42:10 -0500
> From: [email protected]
> Subject: [OANDP-L] RESPONSES: Custom transfers
> To: [email protected]
>
> Dear List,
>
> I received several responses regarding custom transfers. Most suggested avoiding the iron-on and trying to locate a sublimation ink printer or find iron-on Crayola crayons. Below is the orginal post followed by responses.
>
> Thanks to all who provided input.
>
> Sincerely,
> Sarah Parsons, LCO
>
> ORIGINAL POST:
> I have a patient that would like to have pictures of her grandchildren on her polypropylene AFOs. Is anyone aware of a company that will print custom transfer paper or has anyone had success with creating their own (perhaps with the iron-on printer paper)?
>
> RESPONSES:
> Try contacting Friddles Orthopeadics. They had done this for me in the past.
>
> +++
>
> There’s a good article about this on Delphi’s Tech Corner:
> http://www.delphiortho.com./TechCornerDec06.pdf. If she’d be happy with some of her Grandkids drawings on them a method that we use is to let children draw their own designs with specially designed crayons on normal A4 paper and use that as the transfer, attached is a pic. It’s very basic but some of the kids love having something they’ve done on their brace.
>
> +++
>
> Inkjet Iron on paper doesn’t work… it just scratches off after it’s cooled. The only custom transfer that we’ve had success with is the crayons (crayola makes special iron on transfer crayons) that you can draw a picture with and transfer that… she’d have to have a really great crayon artist to draw her grandchildren.
>
> +++
>
> You need access to a sublimation printer. Scan the file you wish to use then print then transfer the image and apply as usual. Sublimation supplies are readily available. You need a printer that uses special color corrected thermal inks. My suggestion is to get your yellow pages out look for tee shirt shops or print shops. Many people do this type of work. I don’t suppose you wanted to spend as little as $800 dollars to accomplish this. That is the typical cost for a printer. View this link.
> http://www.coastalbusiness.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=68617
>
> +++
>
> Midwest o & p. Southbend in
>
> +++
>
> talk to Bernie Veldman at Surestep.
>
> +++
>
> You need to find a printing company that has a printer that uses “sublimation ink” and see if they can copy the photo. Do not try the iron-on transfer paper – it scratches off like a scratch ticket!! I tried this in the past and was told the sub. ink printers are the only way to go and they are very expensive so professional prints shops may or maynot have one.
>
> I know in the past some P&O people had a sub. ink printers but when I searched around most had stopped doing it due to the expense.
> Hope this helps! Good Luck
>
> +++
>
> One of our orthotists discovered that you can draw a design (backwards) on regular paper with fabric crayons, and it transfers like regular transfer paper. You probably are not going to draw her grandchildren, but maybe for another application!
>
> +++
>
> I have used the iron on before when I was active duty. I put the
> patients name, and my lab details on it. Same as a sticker I guess, but stickers get lost. I never attempted a full color picture, but now you have sparked my interest.
> The stickers I made were simple. Microsoft word, invert the picture,
> and print it with the printer set to iron on paper setting. There were
> two ways I was successful. First, like regular transfer paper, was to
> put it where you want it once the plastic was clear, rub it, and then
> peel it. The problem is distortion. I had an Air Force logo on this
> and once distorted, looked horrible. I then decided to try post pull.
> You cannot do it immediately after you pull, as the plastic has already turned opaque or white. I tried heating the area with a heat gun till it turned clear, applied my iron on, rubbed and peeled. It took me about 5 times to get it right. Once I got it right, I had no problems after that. The plastic has to be perfectly clear and not too hot. If you get it to hot, the plastic starts to bleed oil, and you end up with a goopy mess and stained plastic. I also tried a pva iron. No success here, as the plastic is white and hard. There is nothing to saturate/stain The pva iron did transfer the picture, however, when it dried, it flaked off. Good luck, and post a reply once you find a source, or find in house success.
> _________________________________________________________________
> Get quick access to your favorite MSN content with Internet Explorer 8.
> http://ie8.msn.com/microsoft/internet-explorer-8/en-us/ie8.aspx?ocid=B037MSN55C0701A
> ********************
> To unsubscribe, send a message to: [email protected] with
> the words UNSUB OANDP-L in the body of the
> message.
>
> If you have a problem unsubscribing,or have other
> questions, send e-mail to the moderator
> Paul E. Prusakowski,CPO at [email protected]
>
> OANDP-L is a forum for the discussion of topics
> related to Orthotics and Prosthetics.
>
> Public commercial postings are forbidden. Responses to inquiries
> should not be sent to the entire oandp-l list. Professional credentials
> or affiliations should be used in all communications.
_________________________________________________________________
Get quick access to your favorite MSN content with Internet Explorer 8.
http://ie8.msn.com/microsoft/internet-explorer-8/en-us/ie8.aspx?ocid=B037MSN55C0701A
